SKIN BARRIER SCIENCE
Why your skin barrier matters
The skin barrier is the body's first line of contact with the outside world. It helps reduce moisture loss, supports the skin's natural protective function and contributes to skin that feels comfortable, smooth and resilient.
Everyday factors such as weather, cleansing, environmental exposure and naturally changing skin can influence how well this barrier performs. When it becomes less effective, skin may feel drier, tighter or more reactive.
Supporting the skin barrier has therefore become one of the central principles of modern cosmetic formulation. Rather than focusing on one ingredient alone, well-designed formulations combine humectants, emollients and other barrier-supporting ingredients to help maintain healthy-looking skin.
At FIGGI, barrier resilience forms one of the three pillars of the Aspalux3™ formulation framework, alongside hydration balance and visible skin comfort.
THE SCIENCE
How the skin barrier works
The outermost layer of the skin, known as the stratum corneum, acts as a protective barrier between the body and the external environment. It helps reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL) while limiting the penetration of external irritants.
This barrier is formed by skin cells held together by a complex mixture of lipids, including ceramides, cholesterol and free fatty acids. Together they help maintain hydration, flexibility and overall skin comfort.
When the barrier is functioning well, skin is better able to retain moisture and feels smoother, softer and more resilient. Supporting this natural barrier is therefore one of the most established goals of modern cosmetic skincare.
Why barrier support matters
A healthy skin barrier helps maintain hydration, supports the skin's natural protective function and contributes to overall skin comfort. While cosmetic products cannot change the skin's biology, they can help reinforce the conditions that allow the barrier to perform effectively.
Modern formulations increasingly combine humectants, emollients and skin-identical lipids to support moisture balance and reduce excessive water loss. Together, these ingredients help maintain skin that feels comfortable, resilient and healthy-looking.
For this reason, barrier resilience forms one of the three pillars of FIGGI's Aspalux3™ formulation framework, where it works alongside hydration balance and visible skin comfort as part of a complete formulation system.
FURTHER READING
Questions about the skin barrier
What is the skin barrier?
The skin barrier is the outermost layer of the skin. It helps reduce water loss, supports the skin's natural protective function and contributes to healthy-looking, comfortable skin.
What can affect the skin barrier?
Environmental exposure, frequent cleansing, low humidity, ageing and other everyday factors can all influence how effectively the skin barrier performs.
Can skincare repair the skin barrier?
Cosmetic products cannot repair damaged tissue or treat skin disease. However, well-formulated skincare can help support the skin barrier by maintaining hydration, reinforcing moisture balance and improving overall skin comfort.
Which cosmetic ingredients help support the skin barrier?
Humectants, emollients, occlusive ingredients and skin-identical lipids such as ceramides all play recognised roles in supporting the skin barrier and maintaining hydration.
Why is barrier support important for sensitive skin?
When the skin barrier functions well, it is better able to retain moisture and maintain comfort. Supporting the barrier is therefore an important part of cosmetic skincare developed for dry, sensitive and reactive-feeling skin.
EDUCATIONAL RESOURCE
The information on this page is provided for educational purposes and reflects the current scientific understanding of skin barrier biology and cosmetic barrier support. It should not be interpreted as medical advice or as evidence that cosmetic products diagnose, treat or prevent disease. References to barrier-supporting ingredients describe recognised cosmetic functions within the framework of applicable cosmetic regulations.
Scientific References
The information presented on this page is based on established research into skin barrier biology, transepidermal water loss, skin hydration and cosmetic formulation science.
Scientific References
Skin Barrier Biology
- Proksch E, Brandner JM, Jensen JM. The skin: an indispensable barrier. Experimental Dermatology. 2008.
- Elias PM. Stratum corneum defensive functions: an integrated view. Journal of Investigative Dermatology.
- Madison KC. Barrier function of the skin: “la raison d’être” of the epidermis. Journal of Investigative Dermatology.
Stratum Corneum Structure
- Elias PM, Menon GK. Structural and lipid biochemical correlates of the epidermal permeability barrier. Advances in Lipid Research.
- Bouwstra JA, Ponec M. The skin barrier in healthy and diseased state. Biochimica et Biophysica Acta.
- Feingold KR. The outer frontier: the importance of lipid metabolism in the skin. Journal of Lipid Research.
Transepidermal Water Loss (TEWL)
- Alexander H, Brown S, Danby S, Flohr C. Research techniques made simple: transepidermal water loss measurement as a research tool. Journal of Investigative Dermatology. 2018.
- Fluhr JW, Feingold KR, Elias PM. Transepidermal water loss reflects permeability barrier status. Experimental Dermatology.
- Pinnagoda J, Tupkek RA, Agner T, Serup J. Guidelines for transepidermal water loss measurement. Contact Dermatitis.
Ceramides and Skin Lipids
- Coderch L, López O, de la Maza A, Parra JL. Ceramides and skin function. American Journal of Clinical Dermatology.
- van Smeden J, Bouwstra JA. Stratum corneum lipids: their role for the skin barrier function in healthy subjects and atopic dermatitis patients. Current Problems in Dermatology.
- Imokawa G. Lipid abnormalities in atopic dermatitis. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology.
Hydration and Moisturisation
- Rawlings AV, Harding CR. Moisturization and skin barrier function. Dermatologic Therapy.
- Loden M. Role of topical emollients and moisturizers in the treatment of dry skin barrier disorders. American Journal of Clinical Dermatology.
- Draelos ZD. The science behind skin care: moisturizers. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology.
Cosmetic Formulation Science
- Barel AO, Paye M, Maibach HI. Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology.
- Draelos ZD. Cosmetic Dermatology: Products and Procedures.
- Surber C, Kottner J. Skin care products: what do they promise, what do they deliver. Journal of Tissue Viability.